We came into Pennsylvania on Friday 15th May. We actually really didn’t want to leave Shenandoah. We could have stayed a few more days and done some more hiking etc. but we were now on a schedule to to be in Connecticut by Saturday 30th. We were due to fly back to the UK on Saturday 6th June out of Boston and we wanted to have a week with Dad and Carol before we left. So 2 weeks to get from Shenandoah to Connecticut via Manhattan and a date with Mr. Samuels and Mamaroneck and a visit to our friends from Lake Louise all that time ago, John and Diane.
We said goodbye to Bill and Rosemary and drove out and through 4 states in one day – Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland and then into Pennsylvania. You can really ‘tick off’ the States in this part of the US. Remember when it took us weeks to cross Texas?!? We stopped in a town called Guilford which we thought might be nice on account of it having the same name as a city not too far from home. Hmmm. Not really any comparisons to be made here. Honestly at this stage we were not exactly loving Pennsylvania. The people we witnessed while doing our grocery shopping all seemed weird and rude. In fact, for the first time on this whole trip I didn’t want the kids to walk around the store on their own. Not sure I can even explain why – just a feeling. (Interestingly when I emailed Rosemary a few days later she said that she and Bill had had the exact same experience – glad to know it wasn’t just me!!).
Saturday we headed off to see what we were primarily interested in here and that was Pennsylvania Dutch country. A really pretty rural region and honestly it would be wholly unremarkable apart from the presence of Amish and Mennonite groups who live here; descendants of German immigrants that settled here in the early 1700’s. Without any of the trappings and technological advances of the 21st century including cars and electricity they attempt to retain their simple ways of life. However, as bus loads of tourists come here to see them it seems their lives must be more complicated these days.
We headed first to Lancaster (which for a single day in the revolutionary war served as the capital of the country) to their famous Central market. It is the Nations oldest public farmers market and was crowded with stalls of delicious home grown food, whoopee pies, soft pretzels, quilts and other handicrafts staffed by bonneted, plain dressed Amish women. We found there a fantastic little shop selling pickles. Seemed rather a ‘niche market’ but their horseradish pickles were incredible.
Next was the town of Intercourse (snigger snigger) where we headed for a restaurant which 2 separate guidebooks said would NOT be full of coach loads of tourists. We got there and it had closed down 3 years ago – hmm time for a new guide book? It was a strange mix of the people trying hard to retain their ‘simple’ way of life alongside modern technology and gawping tourists. Too many signs and stalls offering “Authentic Amish” fare and Buggy Rides and we decided we’d had enough so we left town, as we felt a little uncomfortable with it honestly.
Actually the drive out of town was the nicest part. Here we saw the lovely farms being run in the old ways; teams of horses ploughing the fields. Which despite the huge tractor dealership in town seemed lovely. A simpler way of life indeed.
We spent a couple of nights in a very strange campsite called Lake in Woods and tried to work out the next couple of weeks – a week today we would be in NYC, 2 weeks today we would be in CT then 3 weeks today we would be in the UK – how to slow down time??!!!
On Monday 18th May we drove out towards Philadelphia. We weren’t sure if we would include it but were recommended to spend some time there by Suzy, who so far had given us some great tips so we took her word for it and yet again she didn’t let us down. We, well I, was hoping we could visit a NPS Iron Forgers nearby on the way. Sadly, they were closed on Mondays – children heartbroken not to be able to do a Ranger program and get a badge of course! We used the spare time to do a bit of ‘back to school’ shopping. School shoes for the boys. Much moaning and complaining how uncomfortable they all were until we realised that having worn trainers and flip flops for 12 months they just didn’t remember what ‘formal’ shoes felt like.
Got to Philadelphia to a very unique campsite. Always staying in cities the issue is about the campsite. Either centrally located and horrible or miles from town and so impossible for access. This one was basically an old truck depot now used as park and ride where they have 15 spots for RV’s with full hook up – electricity, water and sewer. For $30 per night it included a free shuttle into town. Bargain – and better still the last night the nice man in the office insisted was ‘on him’ so we did very well.
We had 2 days of visiting the city. We had thought maybe we would just spend one day here but we really liked it. Day one we used the bus service down to the University of Pennsylvania (once a client for an event many years ago) then from there we got a bus right down to the old part of the city and Independence Mall. Another brilliantly well organized and informative NPS location. The Liberty Bell, Congress Hall and Independence Hall, all right here.
So I didn’t realise that Philadelphia was the capital of the USA when they first declared independence from Britain and joined the then 13 colonies here. We did 2 tours here and the kids of course did their Junior Ranger programs. So a bit of history…
Here in Independence Hall they prepared and signed the Declaration of Independence. The 20 min Declaration of Independence speech was read out in the first week of July 1776 at the end of which they rang the Liberty Bell (which was housed here before being moved to it’s new location in the Liberty Bell Centre). At the time there were 13 colonies. So the number 13 is everywhere not least of all in the rising sun with 13 rays on the roof that showed the idea of 13 ‘united’ states. It was while Franklin was in Paris asking for money and arms for the newly ‘United States’ that the name was first used and it stuck.
There have been 44 presidents so far and their democracy started right here. Washington was elected in NYC them inaugurated here in Congress Hall. He was required to swear to “Uphold, protect and defend the constitution”. At the end of that sentence he added the words ‘so help me God’. All future presidents have done the same. It is not written anywhere, they just all say it.
We took a wander down Elfreth’s Alley, the oldest residential street in the USA. Past the Betty Ross NP Centre. This is the lady who made the first stars and stripes flag – so they have made her house into a memorial! There are memorials for absolutely everything in this town – plaques everywhere you look. Especially liked this one!!
At the end of Old city along the Delaware River is where William Penn stepped off in 1682, now Penn’s Landing development with restaurants etc. We hung out here on the second day as well as making full use of our city passes on the brilliant Phlash Buses. Visited the Love sculpture then the Philadelphia Museum of Art, which we all loved; Van Gogh, Rothko, Monet, Klimt, Kandinsky, Picasso etc. etc. Really interesting seeing how different our kids taste is. Will is definitely into modern art and barely glanced at any of the old stuff. Charlie however is totally into the dark 17th century oil paintings. (He wants me to point out that he actually likes all types of art!).
We all ran up and down the steps made famous by Rocky (not that the kids had the first clue who he was) and sat and watched some filming of a Bollywood film which was very entertaining.
We spent hours in the Franklin Institute (what a man Benjamin Franklin was – scientist, philosopher, statesman, inventor and printer!!). The brilliant Art of the Brick exhibition by Nathan Sawaya was here. Fantastic recreations of famous works of art all in Lego as well as his own original creations. Next stop was the Science Museum. Another brilliant museum.
Last but definitely not least was getting a Cheese Philly Sandwich. Hotly disputed as to where the best sandwiches are served and what type of cheese is best, we went to Sonny’s. Delicious!!!
Another great city which we would wholeheartedly recommend to visit. Next we were headed into New Jersey with a plan of chilling on the Jersey Shore for a few days before heading into Manhattan.
Wickenswanderings 