Pacific Coast Highway

We left the Redwoods on Thursday 9th October with 2 days to get us down the coast to San Francisco where we had booked a campsite. We don’t normally book ahead but when it is in cities we always reckon it’s best not to risk it.

By the time we had finished up checking out the big trees and taken a quick walk through the drive through tree at Leggett the sun was setting.  We’d decided we wanted to take the coast road down to San Fran as we go no faster on the big highways as we do on the little roads what with us being on the large side… Also it is far less nerve wracking being on 2 lane highways than 4 lanes in each direction.

So we set off from Leggett at the start of the Pacific Coast Highway towards the next town heading south with a campsite and more importantly a restaurant. Only 27 miles so we thought we’d be there by 7-7.30pm.  Ha Ha Ha. The sat nav said it was going to take 2 hours. Rubbish we thought and off we went. Well she was right (as always!!). It was the most narrow and windy road we had seen so far. We barely got out of 2nd gear most of the way up or down again. John and William were up front and Charlie and I were clinging onto each other in the back.

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So it was that at 9pm we arrived starving and totally strung out into the tiny town of Westport. The ‘restaurant’ was a deli at the front of a motel and when I walked through the door there was only a very old man being helped up out of his armchair by a lady who asked me what the time was and then told me that they were no longer serving food. It looked as if they hadn’t been serving food in about 10 years!!  The campsite seemed ok, what we could see of it in the dark and was certainly near the sea as we could hear it. So it was one of those nights when cheese on toast is all the supper we can rustle up.

We woke the next day to clouds, which meant we had to dig to the bottom of our wardrobes for jeans. (Like the use of the word ‘wardrobe’ there? Anyone who has seen in Frankie will understand that what I actually meant was the bottom of 3 plastic crates of crumpled up clothing that is accessed only by puling out all the other boxes first and then attempting to shove them back in with the lids bursting off. It is one of my favourite things about living in Frankie – truly!!!).  We didn’t exactly make use of the facilities here other than a quick wander down to the beach. Back onto highway 1 and progress was slow. Although absolutely stunning in terms of the views from the road, the road is very narrow, very windy and has so many switchbacks it made what we had driven so far seem mild.

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By lunch time we had only made it 25 miles further south down to the lovely town of Mendocino. Or ‘Spendocino’ as it is affectionately dubbed by the folks round these parts! It is a very cutesy little harbour town, which has been used for the location of lots of TV shows including Murder She Wrote – it was instantly recognisable. We had a nice lunch, some overpriced organic coffee and ice cream and spent a fortune in their book store then got back on the road.

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More nail biting miles as Frankie barely made it round some of the tight switchbacks and we were so close to the edge of the road and cliff that it was almost a relief when the fog rolled in as the afternoon wore on. At least then it felt as if we were driving through the middle of clouds rather than balancing in a 28’ van with 8’ trailer on the edge of some very high cliffs about the sea! In fact Charlie very accurately described the scene was “as if the clouds had collapsed” – spot on I’d say!

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We got to Salt Point State Park just before sunset and spurned a site with full hook up etc. in favour of their over flow carpark. Sounds strange but we have sort of seen enough of lovely forested campsites with fire pits and pine needles everywhere. What we were interested in was the view over the cliffs. We watched the sun go down out our window and more excitedly watched the fog literally roll in towards us like a huge tidal wave.

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Saturday 11th we woke to clear blue skies which made us feel slightly more confidant about the last 70 or miles we had to go to get to San Francisco. We had a very blustery walk along the cliff and were well rewarded with spotting seals, turkey vultures and American eagles right there in front of us.

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We headed to the town of Jenner for breakfast (thought of you Sally!!). We were now very much into the stretch of coast just above San Fran and it felt like this where they might come for the weekend. Each little town had trendy coffee shops and restaurants with valet parking, which seemed a bit excessive in a little beachside seafood restaurant!! Jenner was definitely one of those towns and we had to squeeze Frankie into a layby half way up a cliff as there wasn’t a single parking space in town. Never the best of feelings to leave our ‘home’ on a steep slope next to the waters edge.. Worth it though for the yummy coffees and blueberry scones we had sat by the waters edge watching the paddle boarders going out with a man strumming his guitar outside the café. Highlight of the day was that we finally got to spot a hummingbird up close. Just buzzing around the flowers outside the café – the kids were delighted.

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Our progress didn’t exactly speed up and we took most of the day growing only slightly weary of the dramatic Pacific Coast Highway.

One last stop in Point Reyes and we picked up a pizza –  had to take a photo of Will as he looked so grown up and this seemed a scary glimpse into the future!!.

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We were however only too pleased to finally glimpse the Golden Gate Bridge early evening on Saturday – San Francisco at last.

3 responses to “Pacific Coast Highway

  1. San Francisco bay area: one of my favourite places! I lived there from 1986-1990 when I moved to the UK. Lived in San Mateo, Pleasanton, Livermore, hills of Oakland (Richmond district). Worked in Pleasanton (in the defense industry, managing a factory that machined tools for making the Stealth bomber – which I hated!) then moved to the just booming IT industry and worked in Milpitas and Palo Alto for Sun Microsystems (until the big earthquake caused Sun to disperse manufacturing and tall blondes around the world). The rest is history J

    Think you may have already gone past Point Reyes but as you’ve seen whales already then that’s OK.

    SF itself is a little gem: very small, most “European” of the American cities. Lots of small breweries in the SF bay area so be sure to sample! More restaurants than you can ever hope to try.

    Yosemite (I know you don’t believe there are really any bears in America but I have seen them here J)

    Monterey/Sausalito (aquarium in Monterey)

    Half Moon Bay (beauty spot – surfing)

    Drive through Stanford University in Palo Alto to inspire the boys!

    “Silicon Valley”

    Took my first hot air balloon ride out near the Altamont Pass (if you like rock and roll history then this is where the Rolling Stones had an infamously violent concert thanks to the Hell’s Angels). Not much to see there now other than a wind farm and Livermore Labs (not at all sure if this would be worth a detour or not but it is a national science and technology lab, very famous, might be a good educational trip!).

    Anything that goes back as far as 1850 is ANCIENT HISTORY as far as California is concerned – except for natural history of which there is plenty.

    Might amuse your kids to make an earthquake plan – and might even come in handy too although I hope not!

    Will send more later if I can get a quiet moment to think …

    Sx

  2. Forget my earlier comment about Point Reyes – I just read more carefully and see you got pizza there J

    The boys might like (assuming it’s still true): the triangle created by San Francisco, Monterey, and the Farallon Islands has the highest population of great white sharks in the world. One of the islands is called Fanny Shoal but perhaps that’s a joke best kept between you and John.

    On clear days they say you can see the Farallon Islands from SF but I never did. You can get out there on tour boats if you’re not too burned out on the wildlife thing!

    I also never had enough courage to go into the Pacific Ocean in a wetsuit on a surfboard, knowing that I’d look just like a seal from below! The abalone fisherman in Monterey are very brave I think: they look like seals in their wetsuits and hold abalones which are a favourite food of the great white. What would health-and-safety have to say about that.

    Sx

  3. What a wonderful trip on the Pacific Coast…I SO remember those switchback roads with the water down below on steep cliffs! You described it perfectly!! As always, your pics are amazing and Norb had to laugh at loud when I showed him the pic of Will and the Coors Light…I guess somethings of Norb rubbed off on you guys!! TOO FUNNY!! Love you all!!

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